Panoramic view © Nicolas Friedli

Neuchâtel is not a grandiose city, and the accommodation on offer is serviceable but not spectacular. There’s a Swiss Backpackers hostel, Oasis, 35 Rue du Suchiez (032/731 31 90, fax 730 37 09; a; closed Nov–April), with dorms from Fr.23; it’s over 2km west of town at the mouth of the Gorges du Seyon, signposted from the Vauseyon stop on bus #1. The three campsites either side of Neuchâtel are all pretty good: 8km west are Petit Cortaillod in the nearby village of Cortaillod (032/841 40 31; April–Oct) and the better, but more expensive, Paradis Plage in adjoining Colombier (032/841 24 46, fax 841 43 05; March–Oct); while in Marin-Epagnier, at the head of the lake 5km to the east, is La Tène (032/753 73 40; April–Sept).

Beau-Rivage, 1 Esplanade du Mont-Blanc (032/723 15 15, fax 723 16 16, www.beau-rivage-hotel.ch). Top of the range lakefront palace, with double-swanky rooms and views to match. g.

City, Place Piaget (032/725 55 77, fax 721 38 69). A traditionally minded, comfortable mid-range establishment in the city centre which has wisely splashed out on soundproofing. b.

Maison du Prussien, Gor du Vauseyon (032/730 54 54, fax 730 21 43, www.hotel-prussien.ch). Neuchâtel’s most characterful choice – a restored sixteenth-century mill beside a stream 2km west of town, with six comfortable, well-appointed wood-beamed rooms and four expensive suites. c–d.

Du Marché, 4 Place des Halles (032/724 58 00, fax 721 47 42). The only hotel in the Old Town, with ten pleasant and spacious rooms (none en suite) overlooking a bustling café-lined square. b.

Touring au Lac, Place Numa-Droz (032/725 55 01, fax 725 82 43, www.touring-au-lac.ch). Not a tranquil location beside both the harbour and the main road, but with some nice views. Its boxy rooms (some en suite) are nothing to write home about. b–c.